Wrist Jewelry: The Iconic Rolex

 inAnyone who has a passion for antiques, particularly, watches, may have heard the remarkable story covered by the media last week about an Air Force veteran who purchased a Rolex for $345.00 while stationed in Southeast Asia in the 1970s.   His two reasons for buying a Rolex:  his admiration towards the airline pilots sporting those beautiful watches and he wanted a reliable watch for scuba diving.  

After, the watch arrived in 1975, he decided not to exposes his gorgeous accessory to salt water, but instead stored  it in a safety deposit  box and kept  all its original packaging, and only taking it out a few times to admire it.

Fast forward 45 years, he decides to get the Rolex appraised on the popular PBS show , Antiques Road Show and the appraiser informed of his treasured 1971 Cosmograph/Daytona Rolex along with the original receipts and brochure, blank warranty paperwork and all it original packaging were in mint condition.  Even the foil sticker on the back with the reference number was still intact.  The actor, Paul Newman wore a similar Rolex in a movie called “Winning”, so the style of watch was a true collectors’ item.  

 Due to it being an Oyster (screw down buttons to keep it waterproof) and Rolex only made them for a short period of time, the appraiser announce that a similar watch could be auctioned for $400,000.   The veteran hilariously fell to the ground blown away with the figure!

After recovering from that bit of news, the concerned host of Antiques Road Show, informed him since his Rolex was in such flawless condition, it could actually be sold between $500,000 to $700,000.  The segment ended with the host warning the stunned veteran not to wear the watch or the price would drop dramatically. 

Collectors of luxury watches, especially investors, acknowledge the long game of holding on to high end, rare, or limited edition watches with the anticipation of future profits.   On the other hand, true lovers of luxury time-pieces, also want to display their sophistication, impeccable taste and joining an ultra-exclusive membership as your income grows.

Those who are new to the game of purchasing watches as an investment , according to those in the professional, suggests eliminating the intimidation by first thoroughly researching the catalogs of watches to determine the type of pieces which  produce pleasure before taking the leap into the world of collecting .

Several factors to keep in mind while determining what watches will be added to your collection:

1.       The actual watch-making

2.       The watch’s status symbol

3.       Its functionality and movement preciseness

4.       The Resale value

5.       The Brand Reputation

Our goal is create a blog series discussing premier luxury watch brands which are considered the elite for wearers, collectors and investors.  So, of course, let’s start with the granddaddy of Swiss watchmaking, the Rolex.   For this blog, we’ll focus on the men’s side.

 Rolex has been the standard barrier when it comes to high end time-pieces whether as an entry level beginner into the market, aficionados of collecting or pure investors.   Rolex is considered the innovator of watch-making registering over 400 patents throughout its storied history.  Headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, the massive home base is made up of 4 separate buildings all focused on certain elements of their watch-making process.

There are essentially 3 ways of purchasing a Rolex.  Either brand new by paying full price for the product and all the original papers and packaging.   Professionals in the business suggest, if buying new, to travel and purchase in a Rolex store located in larger cities or metropolitan airports even if for research purposes. 

Or secondly, buying a vintage Rolex (at least 20 years old) or antique of over 100 years old.  The third choice is to buy pre-owned, 20 years or less and are considered the best bang for your buck in value appreciation, yet buyers have to be very cautious and deal only with dealers you trust since this market is extremely susceptible to counterfeits.    

When determine the look of your Rolex, the watch breaks down into these elements:

–          The Casing which houses the internal components of the watch knob on the side of the watch

–          The Crown  which is the external knob on the side –  sealed hermetically on the watch making it water proof

–          The Watch Glass made of synthetic sapphire crystal

–          The Bezel – the outer ring that seals the case  (choices include plain, fluted, engraved fixed, rotating with inserts, rotating precious metals and  bejeweled

–          The Dial – gives the watch its face and displays the functions (i.e., hours, minutes, seconds, date and other indicators of time).  The dial comes together through master artisans and innovative technology

–          The Bracelet is the band  attached to the case to secure around your wrist to the seal (choices include oyster, jubilee, president, pearl, leather, rubber)

–          The lugs  -the protruding edges to the watch

–          The model is the outer design of the watch referenced by a number consisting of the year, version and caliber or movement

–          The type of movements within the watch

–          The Concealed clasp/crown clasp hidden under the bracelets link making the bracelet look like a continuous loop

BASIC MATERIALS

–          Oystersteel  – a steel alloy ; resistant to corrosion and acquires an exceptional sheen when polished

–          Rolesor – combination of Oyystersteel and gold

–          Everose gold 18k – combination of rose gold with either added silver or copper

–          Yellow Gold 18k

–          White Gold 18K

–          950 Platinum – known for its slivery whiteness and the best material to showcase precious stones

–          Cerachrom – used in their bezel created from extremely hard ceramic material

–          Precious stones  with diamonds being the most common

–          Chromalight – white but glow blue in the dark

 

ESSENTIAL PERPETUAL MOVEMENTS – self-winding mechanical movements, hidden in its waterproof case, invisible to the wearer, only to be accessed by Rolex certified watchmakers with special tools.

–          3135 – introduced in 1988 and found in most Rolexes, includes day and date wIth instantaneous date switching at midnight

–          3255 highly accurate movement; introduced in 2015

–          4130 – found only in the Chronograph Daytona

–          9001 – The most complicated of the Rolex movement and found only in the Sky Dweller

CLASSIC MODELS

–          Oyster perpetual – the classic rolex – can be worn as sport or dressy

–          Date just – iconic dress watch – date changes just before midnight

–          Day date – only comes in gold or platinum

–          Pearl master – covered in ethically sourced precious stones

–          Sky-dweller – the ultimate high end Rolex

 

CELLINI COLLECTION

–          Dress Watches – Only available in Precious metals

 

ROLEX’S PROFESSIONAL WATCHES

–          Cosmograph Daytona – Racing Watch

–          Sea dweller – dive watch only available in oyster steel

–          Submariner – Watches worn by both James bond, Steve McQueen 

–          Gmt master II – Pilot Watch

–          Explorer – simplistic look for everyday wear

–          Explorer II – used for caving; dark environments

–          Milgauss – anti magnetic  shield

–          Air King – WWII Aviation Watch

–          Yacht-master – bezel goes both ways for timing yacht races

–          Yacht master II

The investment watch market has grown significantly since the 1980s, as collectors interests have peaked and values have shot up for particular timepieces.

Our love for luxury watches has grown as we become more educated and trained on what makes these intricate complex timepieces tick.  Rolex has been in the forefront for over a century in providing iconic time keepers which speak to a gentleman’s style and discernment.    – AJ

Share your thoughts in the comment section below or on Twitter!

Thank you to the following websites for blog content and reference:

Rolex

Real Men, Real Style YouTube Video on Ultimate Rolex Buying Guide

Hat Tip to the following photographers who took the gorgeous Rolex watch pictures

Amh1988 – Sea Dweller

Pasja1000 – Rolex Clock

Myblowfish – Green Face Submariner

Millenary Watches – Blue Face Submariner

Millenary Watches – Speedmaster

Millenary Watches – Milgaus

Millenary Watches – Dayjust

Millenary Watches – Dayjust Silver

Millenary Watches – Daytona

Millenary Watches – Man modeling Sky Dweller

Henry Fokuhl – Rolexes on display

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